TBT - N°39 - November 2011

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Words from the editor in chief - November 2011

One of Fashion’s most exciting side for us, is the one of instant stardom and fame, which can take an unknown designer, model, stylist, editor, photographer, make-up artist or whoever you are into the next “it” person on the scene. Then comes the way to cultivate your 15 minutes of fame into a lasting and successful career, (a.k.a what the current 17th cycle of America’s Next Top Model is doing). People always ask me how I’ve made the jump from being a highly competitive swimmer, into a high fashion model, and transitioning into a web entrepreneur with a media company of books/web television series/online publications etc. Well for me it’s about knowing what I’m good at and really working hard enough to fulfill whichever dream I have in my mind and making those dreams come true.

As you may know, I’m a polyglot PhD student and a teacher-in-training for 2 years now and I’m also the editor of this magazine which is also a printed sellable publication. How did I do it all? I turned myself into a brand, and I really think people should consider doing the same. The thriving business I’ve created for myself for years and years, with several web television series, web movies adapted from previous books I’ve written, my modeling career, the magazines I’ve undertaken as well etc. are all part of this media empire that I’m really excited to direct and shape as I go along throughout this life. It’s really important for me to give you all a message of empowerment and having fun, I think this is what my audience is looking for. Whether people are reading the magazines I’ve done, or when they’re looking up at my modeling photographs or when they watch one of my web TV shows, I need them to feel the message of fun, drive and originality that I intend to give them. Some of my friends like to call me a “crazy mogul” or a “very driven man” but you know what, that’s what I do, I have my dreams and lots of goals and I always, always go for them.

I’m equally obsessed by very powerful moguls-in-trainings because I sort of created my journey based on theirs to a certain extend. I find the Olsen twin sisters incredibly inspiring, they made their first million while they were still in diapers thanks to a popular TV series, they produced tv series and sold products leveraging their image, and not just in terms of money, they’re really dedicating their lives to their own brands, I find this uplifting and motivating for the generations of kids who have no clue what to do with their lives. I look up so much to people like Tyra Banks, Will Smith, Oprah, Steve Jobs, and all of these incredible moguls, who took their skills to the next level and turn these into a business, and that’s what I think is the message, for this issue. “You can think in terms of yourselves as being a brand, and that’s why it’s so important to take care of the bread early” said 70’s supermodel B. Smith, when she was invited on “The Tyra Banks Show”, celebrating the first ever all ‘black’ issue of Vogue Italia” a few years ago.

Now, supermodels like Tyra and Heidi live parallel lives in a way because they’re equally famous and successful and also because they’re powerful brand themselves. Look, they are both bona fide fashion moguls with their own successful fashion inspired television shows, they’re former Victoria’s Secret models, and were high ranking fashion runway models. These supermodels seem to have the Midas touch when it comes to business and marketing their image, which is key to a lasting career in this world. They earn some of the highest incomes in the fashion industry even though they are both basically retired and they also do it mainly without controversy and scandal like so many of their younger counterparts. It's not just the beauty and brains for The Bertrand Times, it's what each of these moguls/brands achieved and are doing nowadays to keep up with their businesses. If I took Banks and Klum’s resumes, it’s because they are two very multi-faceted stars who have completed their respective careers with higher and higher achievements.

When you think “supermodel”, or “mogul” or “entrepreneur” you have sexy well known models in mind, if you’re in love with fashion of course, but if asked to name a male model within the same league, however, most of people in the streets would struggle to think of someone who even comes close. That’s why I created this niche for myself if you want. I mean, even though it seems that the modeling male industry is set to change with the new league of hunks who have invaded fashion, determined to establish international reputations on the same scale as their female counterparts, it still gets very hard for any of these guys to make a name for themselves. On the contrary, I’ve on my level, established myself as a brand for people to see that I can do anything I set my mind to do.. It’s not about being selfish but it’s about working with your skills. I’ve been a model for almost ten years now and I’ve done a few jobs here and there between runways, catalogs and editorials but my goal was to create a place for a self-made brand. I don’t care if in the next five years people don’t know who I am or what I did with this magazine or the other products I’ve created under my name, but I want people to remember what my brand stands for and to get it without having to explain it.

What we admire at TBT, is tenacity, determination and drive. It’s this tunnel vision that we love to see in stars we cover for the magazine. Tyra Banks, who had a huge crowd assembled at her “Modelland” book signing, revealed that she wanted to leave a legacy like Walt Disney's, and that’s right there why she is this brand herself. “I want to leave a legacy like Walt Disney. I used to go to Disneyland when I was little and I didn't know he was a person,” Banks said without any sense of irony. Although the point she was trying to make was that she wanted her company and its message to young girls to live on long after she was gone”. “It's difficult to be taken serious for anything because I'm thought of as a model, so when I said I wanted to create this television show, people were like, 'You are a model you can't be a producer,” Banks says. “Then 'Top Model was successful and they were like, 'We always knew that was going to be a hit, Tyra. That was fantastic, we always knew that.' Then I said I would love to do a talk show. 'You can't do a talk show, you only produced a show about models.' Then that was successful -- we won two Emmys. And they go, 'We always knew you had that in you.' Cut to me being a writer. Everyone is going, 'Tyra? Author? This model can write?'". By proving everyone wrong, she keeps being this trailblazer kind of human being who is as iconic as any other real brand.

xoxo Bertrand
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TBT in print - The November "Branding" issue n°39



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Video - TBT n° 39 - Cover Diary


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Cover Interview

One in a generation

Adding another layer every time we meet him, this 25th year-old French driven man is on a mission. Photographed at Antonio García’ studio. Known as one of today's self-made French web media moguls and youngest entrepreneurs, a PhD student/teacher-in-training, and a very driven man who's lived his whole life, in the pursue of higher goals, Bertrand goes a step further on the latter.

Underneath that inviting and funny exterior, lies a fiercely determined human being with a national swimming career, a modeling career path, a web television series’ company, a successful list of fashion magazines, books, movies and a determination that notches above everybody else, which fascinates the world. About an hour into Vergnes’ life and one thing comes out very clear: the man has a very special place for fashion in his mind. “To me, fashion is this other worldly place, where anything is possible; where beauty/art and creativity/designers and original minds/behind-the-scenes people have a place and a platform to send a message: which is their own vision of our world or their own ideal planet” says Bertrand. This incredible drive, which he’s extremely conscious about and raises up for himself on a daily basis, comes from his parents’ education and love, and his lifetime’s role model: Tyra Banks. “I looked up to her so so much, like you couldn’t understand or grasp how much her own vision and her career as a supermodel shaped the way I did build up my life to this day. From the moment I saw her, like I knew instantly that she was my mentor, I see this supermodel/business person who is such an inspiration because she has dreams and keeps making them a reality. To me she has become an icon on every sense of the word, I see in her this exceptionally powerful being who is capable of anything: modeling, acting, singing, producing, writing, directing, hosting, managing, speaking with such a poise and a inner beauty which fascinates me and motivates me to do as much as I can to sort of live up to this mogul and statuesque beautiful woman, who has transformed herself into a super mega brand.”

Appreciating and celebrating the influence of black models in the fashion world, has also been one of Vergnes’ personal interests. “I think that, because they had to fight to get where they are, those people especially in fashion are really interesting to my eyes. Their careers remind me of my own struggles to build up my brand or being accepted in any arena I wanted to set myself into. I mean it’s obvious that the African American market isn’t as well represented or celebrated as the Caucasian market. So, for me, when I see people like Tyra, Iman, Pat, Naomi and the young girls like Chanel, Jourdan, Sessilee or Arlenis and Joan, I’m getting excited because they do pay homage to their community and still build up careers for themselves. I’m all about branding, I think I was a business man in another life like for real. I love to watch/read/hear about very successful people who started with nothing and then blossom to become very respected and powerful people; but not with the power to bring others down to build up their business, but those who help their community to make everybody happier, I guess this is my philanthropic side, if you will.” Bertrand makes a pause and then retakes his thought: “It’s funny because now that I think about it, no one in my entire family or my friendly groups is as obsessed with drive as much as I am. I believe that now, being 25, I sort of build up a tiny mini media empire for myself, but which can totally stand up on its own nowadays, because I rightly previously added books, web television shows, web created-movies, online magazines to my brand.”

Vergnes, who started modeling at age 16, in the south of France, with test photos, castings and go-sees, soon up began to be signed in France and started to travel to various countries in Europe and eventually landed to Spain. Once there he got signed to 6 agencies right after spending only one month in Madrid, its capital. Now, if you're the type of fashion-hungry person who loves to hear about the era of big supermodels and then the clash with celebrities landing covers to promote their movies, and longs to know how successful careers really happen, then hear him up; Bertrand Vergnes dares to explain his view on these matters today. “I remember when top models used to rule covers and editorials in the 90’s, like Linda, Christy, Naomi, Cindy, Claudia, Elle, Stephanie, Tyra or Helena, they were all able to do so, because they were allowed to be themselves rather than monotonous-looking, personality-less stick figures forced to conform to someone else's extreme idea of beauty. And since rock stars and actors weren’t as famous as today, because the perception of the public changed, then those girls had it all. You could see them in movies, advertising, campaigns, red carpets, talk shows etc. I mean everywhere you could think of. So when I started, I had in mind those big names and their spectacular careers to live up to, so it gave me that extra bit of excitement. I obviously didn’t start out nor had the 10% of their careers, but I love the fact that they truly inspired me.” After he did small runway shows in the south of France and travelled to Germany, England and Italy, Vergnes finally came to Spain for his 3rd year at University. With a portfolio already filled up with test photos and small jobs, he visited 10 agencies in Madrid as he wanted to continue his career on the side of his studies. And just like that, 6 of them booked him right away, and a few months later he decided to stick with 4 of them and started to travel doing shows, editorials and began to brand himself in the process with the creation of this current magazine, The Bertrand Times.

Since its first cover on September 1st, 2008, The Bertrand Times has had people talking. Vergnes’ self-made magazine chronicles the most exciting fashion moments of today’s most striking collections, designers, models and interesting faces of our world. Editorial images and relevant cover stars keep reflecting the ideal of the fashion and lifestyle publication, for more than 3 years now. “I would have never guessed, in a million years, that this little project I had in mind when I was 12-14 years old, before I started to model professionally, would shape into something real and exciting for my team and myself to work on, every single month. It really is a dream comes true. This is my core brand you know; I now have a voice and a platform to bring my vision to life. Throughout this publication I speak to my readers, I share my ideas and a vision that we all share with my team of editors/photographers/stylists. This project helps me to discover new models and helping them to build a professional portfolio, so I’m really glad people are following it and get this exciting feeling about it.” The other thing is that, I have lots of friends who compliment me on those achievements I make once in a while, but I always cheer them up and teach them that ‘we are all capable of achieving our dreams’. The only tool they need, bedsides being creative/driven/focused and skilful on their field of expertise, is being organized and being a true expert at multitasking.” Every month, the team of editors comes up with the most beautiful/interesting, and fashion-forward cover stars, and those covers are highlighted alongside a behind-the-scenes story with a featured fabulous editorial. “Featuring the work of today’s influential fashion models, rising talents and photographers from Paris, London, Madrid and Sofia, helps creating a stronger wrapper to Vergnes’ brand. The magazine is a stunning celebration of everything that influences me.

“I do have though a very strong opinion on celebrities on magazines’ covers, I do not mind them when they’re gracing famous people’s kinda of publications, but when they’re invading campaigns, catwalks, editorials and covers, it makes me really angry, because these are models’ jobs! This year, as I was reading Coco Rocha’s own blog, I was particularly interested in her article for British Elle’s august issue, when she asked Cindy Crawford and Iman if they felt professional modeling was a dying career path. ‘It certainly is harder to achieve success as a fashion model today,’ Cindy said. ‘It seems like just being a good model isn’t enough. I tell young models to develop other talents as well’ Iman told Coco, and she even had a slightly different angle on the issue. ‘I wouldn’t mind if these A-, B-, C- and D-list ‘celebrities’ only got the covers,’ said Iman. ‘As we all know, covers don’t pay the rent!’ The real kicker for Iman is that celebrities are ‘grabbing the spoils of war of our industry! Those coveted beauty and hair contracts…’ she added and I couldn’t agree more, nowadays you even see actresses on some fashion runways and in edgy couture editorials; I mean WTF?! Instead this magazine is devoted to help models, rising top models and stars who could shine and go far later on in their careers, it’s an opening-the-door kinda of deal you know.” Sometimes, moments just happen to coordinate and work out, and that’s why some models with the right looks, a big amount of luck and with the best agencies, can truly make a successful career in modeling. “However as Helena Christensen said to a magazine last summer, “we were allowed to just be ourselves” so it changed the way fashion models were being looked at. Ironically enough, in a business where a lot of styles and looks are dictated in some way, from the point of view of the media onto the audience, the careers’ longevity that past models have had was linked to their sense of style, stronger and larger than life personalities. Today people don’t get why it’s so hard for new kids on the block to make a big career and more importantly, to make it last. Young wannabe models have to understand the rules of this industry they try to break into, it’s very tough and a lot of people come and go, so if you want to stay and keep working, you have to have a plan, guts, motivation and talent.” Bertrand who just re-signed with an agency in Madrid, says that his peers got where they are also because of their knowledge and passion for fashion. “It’s crucial, you have to be in love for fashion if you want to work there; otherwise you’re wasting your time. You just have to know who are the players, editors, and top photographers to make it big. The modeling industry is famous for its constant reborn, people come and go but true stars stay.

“When I started in the business, I was 16 and I had people saying to me that I wouldn’t fit their agency profile or had the skin complexion they were after or that I had to lose weight etc. But what kept me around working in editorials and shows and whatever, was my drive. I knew what I wanted to take out of this industry, and it was a resume to have my own brand.” He says with a very American accent. Smart but not vein, Vergnes doesn’t collect his photographs nor talk so much about his ascent as a national swimmer or fashion model. “I prefer to focus of my studies and on this magazine than telling everybody what my resume is. I don’t even have a single photo of myself in my home or in my wallet. My portfolios are in both of my homes in France and Spain and I don’t take a look at them only if my agency tells me to take them for a go-see or whatever. However I’m a photography fan, my favorite photographers have to be Steven Meisel and Patrick Demarchelier. I'd collapse if I’d ever get the chance in my life to work with them.” On this 3rd season of Forever Madrid, one of Vergnes’ current web television series, the young French mogul is determined to reach out his intellectual potential as he enters into his 2cd PhD year as well as keeping modeling as one of his priorities and making the magazine, an even bigger success.

“Watching a whole new generation of models, ever season, on TV or in real life convinced me to go back to one of my skills: modeling. I do have strong opinions though, especially on how male and female models should behave on a shoot and in real life. When I was working the modeling madness in my teens, I had a big knowledge of this industry and I had the walk down I’m not gonna lie, but then hell yeah it was up to me on every shoot to wow that crowd of photographers, stylists, editors, bookers, to convince them I was worth it.” Vergnes, who has graced covers of magazines as well as editorials and modeled for nearly a decade says it wasn’t easy and is conscious he wasn’t introduced into the supermodels’ arenas, he just took that name for his many achievements, as part of his fun side and his many skills with drawing, speaking various languages, as well as modeling, photography and video editing, which he loves very much.

Nowadays Bertrand Vergnes, who has already fashioned a highly successful web media career and achieved the highest level in education, is focusing on his upcoming dreams, which he says he can’t revealed yet. “I’m not superstitious but I like to see my dreams happening before I even describe them. This former self-made ‘supermodel’ is now moving to another step and forging a new role for himself… a teacher.


By Bertrand Vergnes

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Inside star video: Kennan Cahill

 
Copyrights © 2011 The Bertrand Times.